This past February 6 to 21, five members of the Global Peacemakers Association (GPA) travelled to India and Pakistan, now threatening each other with nuclear weapons over the disputed province of Kashmir. We travelled to Mumbai, Ahmedabad, and New Delhi in India, then to Lahore, Islamabad, and Karachi in Pakistan to experiment with our A-bomb presentation, advocate the banning of nuclear weapons, and talk with peace organizations about how the people of Hiroshima can help to defuse enmity and strengthen local peace movements.

I came home from this trip frightened, sad, and hopeful. I was frightened by Dr. Inayatullah, one of Pakistan's best-known physicists, who explained convincingly why India and Pakistan's nuclear weapons are far more likely to be used than those of the US and Russia. I was frightened also by a newspaper article that appeared in the very first Pakistani newspaper I saw. I quote Saeed Ismat, a "retired brigadier and former ambassador of Pakistan."

"... let us visualize an Indian military invasion through the Rajistan desert.....In conjunction with offensives in other areas as well, they could prolong the war and go for our areas in depth. All of Pakistan options [sic] would have foreclosed-except one! We should have a well defined and declared strategy of using our ultimate choice of nuclear weapons, aimed at the destruction of those military forces which have intruded in our territory. Our aim should be the destruction of the invading military forces only and not civilian population." Clearly, this former ambassador is either ignorant of the nature of nuclear war or deliberately misleading the public to foment fear of India and trust in nuclear weapons. Either way, he is frightening.

I came home sad because of what this ridiculous 50-year arms race has done and is doing to the people of these great countries. Both India and Pakistan are far richer than Japan in natural resources. Their people are every bit as intelligent. But neither country has succeeded in lifting its people out of degrading, embarrassing poverty-the kind of poverty that keeps the streets full of shacks and beggars and forces government officials to seek bribes just to make a living. I came home sad because the ordinary people of India and Pakistan are so pathetically ignorant about each other. Each group actually thinks, "We are peaceloving people. Have been for centuries. We want no trouble with anyone, but the enemy will attack if we let down our defense." Both groups are being taught to hate and fear each other, yet the vast majority have no real ill will against anyone. In Pakistan, when we were asked what the Indians had said about them and reported that most had sent them best wishes for peace and cooperation (which is true), many in the audience actually beamed with pleasure.

I came home hopeful because of one Pakistani college student in particular. After our presentation of A-bomb slides and a survivor story she said, "I know nuclear weapons are horrible, but how can we protect ourselves without them?" I said, "You have to abandon the whole idea that India is your enemy. The idea of fighting and winning or losing is obsolete. The only way you can win is if India wins also, and the only way you can protect yourself is by making friends." She looked doubtful. "If your country put half the money and thought it puts into protecting itself into making friends, Pakistan and India would be friends in no time. And then, you would be safe." Her face softened. She smiled and said, "Thank you."

Hiroshima has made the shift. Hiroshima knows that nuclear weapons, war, jealousy, hatred and fear are the only true enemies. All talk of other enemies is primitive, atavistic nonsense. Winning and losing must be confined to sports, movies, and soft drink companies. In the world of politics and international relations, we can no longer afford to think of winning or even competing. We have time for nothing but working together to solve our myriad problems to the genuine satisfaction of all. The GPA trip confirmed that young Hiroshimians, especially those who speak English fluently, can tell the survivors' stories extremely effectively. They can and must continue to carry the light of peace to the furthest, darkest reaches of enmity. My hope is that this city and the people in it will get serious about and competent at spreading the spirit of Hiroshima through a world that needs and wants peace but where too many leaders still capitalize on the excitement, unity, and profits derived from war.